Mitigate

Immediate Fraud Alert: Contact one of the three credit bureaus (Experian, Equifax, or TransUnion) to place a fraud alert on your credit file. A fraud alert is free and instructs creditors to verify your identity before opening new accounts. (If you contact one bureau, they will notify the others.) This will help contain further financial damage while you proceed. Consider requesting a credit freeze at all three bureaus for stronger protection (this prevents new credit altogether until you lift the freeze).

Secure Existing Accounts: Call the fraud departments of any financial institution or company where fraudulent activity has occurred and have them freeze or close those accounts. Explain that your identity has been stolen and no further charges or changes should be allowed without your permission. Change login passwords and PINs on these accounts immediately to prevent further use.

Police and Documentation: If your ID or sensitive documents were stolen (e.g. wallet theft), or if a creditor/collector has informed you of fraudulent accounts, file a police report in your local jurisdiction. While not always required immediately, a police report will become important evidence during recovery. Start gathering documentation of the identity theft (bills, credit report entries, notices) to assist in reporting and remediation.

Preserve Evidence: Do not throw away or delete communications related to the identity theft. Keep copies of fraudulent bills, credit statements showing unauthorized accounts, or debt collection letters – these will help prove the fraud. If the identity theft is connected to a data breach, save any breach notification letters or emails you received.

Restore

Report to FTC (IdentityTheft.gov): Go to IdentityTheft.gov (Federal Trade Commission’s portal) to report the identity theft and get a personalized recovery plan. Completing the online report will generate an official FTC Identity Theft Affidavit. Save or print the affidavit as soon as you complete it. This affidavit, combined with your police report, becomes your Identity Theft Report, which affords you certain legal rights in resolving identity theft.

Police Report & Identity Theft Report: If you have not filed a police report yet, do so now with a copy of the FTC affidavit in hand. Provide any proof of the theft (e.g. collection notices, fraudulent account statements) to the police. Obtain a copy of the police report – you will need it to create the comprehensive Identity Theft Report and to dispute fraudulent accounts. Once you have both the FTC affidavit and police report, they together form your official Identity Theft Report.

Close Fraudulent Accounts & Dispute Errors: Contact each business or bank where the thief opened accounts or made charges in your name. Use your Identity Theft Report to prove the fraud and request closure of fraudulent accounts and removal of unauthorized charges. By law, you are not liable for debts incurred by an identity thief, but you must inform the companies in writing with a copy of your Identity Theft Report. Follow up and keep records of all communications.

Credit Reports and Alerts: Obtain your free credit reports from all three bureaus via AnnualCreditReport.com and review them for any accounts or inquiries you don’t recognize. Use the Identity Theft Report to dispute any fraudulent information with the credit bureaus, asking them to block those items from your report (under the FACT Act). Consider extending the initial 1-year fraud alert to a 7-year extended fraud alert by sending your Identity Theft Report to one bureau – this requires proof of identity theft but gives longer protection. If you haven’t done so, you can also implement a full credit freeze at each bureau for long-term security (free of charge).

Notify Government Agencies if Needed: If your Social Security number was compromised, contact the Social Security Administration’s fraud line and monitor your Social Security statement for any odd earnings. If tax-related identity theft is a risk (e.g. your SSN was stolen), notify the IRS (you may need to file IRS Form 14039 Identity Theft Affidavit) and your state tax agency – file taxes early before a fraudster does. If your driver’s license or state ID was stolen or misused, contact the DMV about getting a new license number and to see if they can flag the old ID number.

Insurance and Legal Help: If you have identity theft insurance (sometimes offered via credit monitoring services or homeowner’s insurance riders), contact the provider – they may help with the restoration process or cover certain recovery expenses. In severe cases of identity theft that involve criminal records or legal judgements in your name, you might consider consulting an attorney or legal aid for additional help clearing your name.

Analyze

Source of Theft: Determine how your identity was compromised to prevent a reoccurrence. Common causes include lost/stolen wallets, data breaches of companies that had your personal data, phishing scams that tricked you into providing info, or someone close to you accessing your documents. If it was a stolen wallet or mail theft, take precautions (e.g. secure your mail, don’t carry your Social Security card). If it was a phishing scam, educate yourself on how to spot fraudulent emails/calls in the future.

Strengthen Personal Data Security: Moving forward, guard your personal information closely. Shred sensitive documents before trashing them. Be cautious about sharing your SSN or birthdate – give it out only when absolutely necessary and to trusted parties. Use a locked mailbox or P.O. box to prevent mail theft of bank statements or tax forms. Consider placing a permanent “credit freeze” at all bureaus and only thaw it when you need new credit – this is often the best prevention against new accounts being opened without your knowledge.

Monitoring: Vigilance is key after an identity theft incident. Check your bank statements and credit card bills frequently for unusual charges. Continue to check your credit reports periodically (you can get free reports annually, and a free report each week from each bureau through 2024). You might enroll in a credit monitoring service or set up free alerts (many banks and bureaus offer free alerts for new inquiries or accounts). Early detection of new fraudulent activity will help you respond faster.

Future Safeguards: Use strong, unique passwords for financial accounts and consider a password manager – while identity theft often involves financial data or SSN rather than account passwords, thieves can use your info to attempt account takeovers too. Enable two-factor authentication on all sensitive accounts (banks, email, etc.) so that even if someone obtains your personal data, they cannot easily access your accounts. Keep your devices secure (up-to-date antivirus, software patches) to thwart malware that could steal personal information.

Stay Informed: Unfortunately, personal data breaches are common. Stay informed by watching the news for major breaches – if a company that holds your data (bank, hospital, employer, etc.) gets breached, take proactive steps (change passwords, place alerts) rather than waiting to see if you’re affected. The FTC provides resources on identity theft prevention and recovery – it’s wise to familiarize yourself with those (including the Identity Theft Guide from IdentityTheft.gov). Learning from this incident, you can be better prepared to protect your identity going forward.

Mitigate

Secure Your Devices First: If you suspect malware (e.g. your computer behavior is odd or the hack involved an unfamiliar device login), run an antivirus scan on your computer before changing passwords. Update your security software and remove any malware found, then restart. This ensures you’re not about to entrust new credentials to an infected system.

Change Passwords and Lock Out the Intruder: As soon as you can, change the password on the compromised account to a strong, unique password that the attacker can’t guess. Do this from a secure, trusted device. Most services (email providers, Facebook, etc.) have an option to “log out of all sessions/devices” – use this after changing the password. This will forcibly sign out anyone (including the hacker) who is logged in with your account on other devices.

Enable 2FA: If not already enabled, set up two-factor authentication (2FA) on the account immediately. Two-factor authentication (also called two-step verification) will require a second code or confirmation (via an authenticator app, SMS, hardware key, etc.) whenever someone tries to log in. This will help contain the breach, as the hacker will be locked out even if they somehow still have your password.

Account Recovery if Locked Out: If the hacker changed your password and you can’t log in, use the account’s recovery process right away. Most platforms have a “Forgot Password” or “My account was hacked” feature (for example, Facebook’s account recovery at facebook.com/hacked, Google’s account recovery flow, etc.). Follow those steps to regain access – you may need to use your backup email or phone number on file. Act quickly, because the attacker might attempt to change those recovery contacts. If recovery fails (the attacker may have altered the account info), contact the platform’s support directly and report that your account was compromised.

Notify Contacts (If Applicable): In the case of a social media or email breach, the attacker might impersonate you to scam others (sending phishing messages, etc.). Put out a quick notice to friends/family that your account was compromised and not to click any suspicious links or requests that came from you. For email, you might send from an alternate account explaining not to trust recent emails from your compromised address. This mitigates any further harm the hacker could do via your identity.

Restore

Review Account Settings: Once you have control again, inspect account settings thoroughly. Hackers often create backdoors: check if any unfamiliar email forwarding rules or linked devices/apps have been added (for email, look at filters or forwarding addresses the hacker might have set up to get copies of your messages). In social media, see if new applications or “authorized login sessions” were enabled. Remove anything suspicious. Also verify that your recovery phone number and email are correct (attackers may have changed them).

Check for Damage: Look through the account’s content to see what the intruder did. In email, check Sent items and Trash for emails the hacker sent or deleted. In social media, review recent posts, messages, or activities (did they message people asking for money? post spam?). Delete any fraudulent or unauthorized posts/messages. Notify anyone who was impacted (e.g., if friends received bizarre messages or scam requests, let them know those were fake).

Secure Connected Accounts: If this account is tied to other accounts, take steps there too. For example, if your email was hacked, the attacker could use it to reset passwords on your other accounts. So: check your other key accounts (banking, shopping, social media) for any sign of unauthorized access. It’s wise to change passwords on your other accounts that use the same email, especially if you re-used the same password elsewhere (which you should avoid in the future). Similarly, if your Facebook was breached and you use Facebook to log into other apps (Spotify, etc.), consider those connected apps at risk – change those credentials if possible or unlink/relink them.

Inform the Platform: Many services encourage reporting of hacking incidents. After securing your account, report the incident to the service provider (if you haven’t already during recovery). For instance, Twitter (X) and Instagram have dedicated support for hacked accounts. They might monitor for any ongoing threat or at least have it on record. In severe cases (verified accounts, etc.), the platform might help restore content or additional security.

Restore Deleted Data (If Possible): Check if the intruder deleted any important information (emails, photos, etc.). Often, deleted emails go to a Trash folder – you might recover them if you act quickly. Some social platforms allow data downloads or have archives. Restore what you can. If the account is critical and content was destroyed (and not recoverable via trash), contact customer support – they sometimes can recover recently deleted data.

Analyze

Determine the Entry Point: Understanding how your account was breached will help prevent it from happening again. Common causes: using a weak or re-used password that was exposed in a data breach, falling for a phishing email that tricked you into entering your login info, having malware (like a keylogger) on your device, or an attacker exploiting security questions/password reset if your account info was public. Review recent emails/texts for any phishing attempts you might have clicked. Check haveibeenpwned.com to see if your email/password appeared in a known breach; if so, that password should never be used again anywhere.

Strengthen Authentication: Going forward, always use strong, unique passwords for each account. Use a reputable password manager to generate and store complex passwords so you don’t reuse them. Maintain two-factor authentication on all accounts that offer it – this is one of the best defenses against account takeovers. Ensure your 2FA methods are secure (prefer authenticator app or security key over SMS when possible, and keep backup codes in a safe place).

Device Security: If there’s any chance malware was involved in the breach, take steps on your devices. Keep your operating system and apps updated with the latest security patches (outdated software can have vulnerabilities hackers exploit). Use antivirus/anti-malware software and keep it updated; periodically run full scans. Be cautious with new software installs – only download from trusted sources to avoid spyware.

Phishing Awareness: A large number of account breaches originate from phishing. Be very skeptical of unsolicited emails or messages that ask you to “login and verify” anything or that present an urgent security alert with a link. Instead of clicking such links, navigate to the site directly. Remember that legitimate companies won’t ask for your password via email. If you receive a suspicious email that looks like it’s from one of your service providers, report it (you can forward phishing emails to reportphishing@apwg.org and to the FTC’s reportfraud.ftc.gov). This helps authorities track phishing campaigns.

Privacy Checkup: Do an audit of the personal information available about you online. Strengthen privacy settings on social media so strangers can’t easily find info like your mother’s maiden name, birthdate, pet names, etc. (common security question answers). The less an attacker can learn about you, the harder it will be for them to impersonate you to customer support or guess security answers. Also, remove any unnecessary third-party app connections to your accounts – each connection is a potential risk if that third-party gets breached.

Aftermath Monitoring: In the weeks following an account breach, be on high alert for further suspicious activity. Sometimes hackers, after a breach, will try “credential stuffing” – testing your leaked password on other services. So watch other accounts for unusual login alerts. Many email providers let you check recent account activity (IP addresses logged in, etc.) – review those and ensure new logins are all you. Lastly, consider setting up login alerts (many services can text/email you on new logins or failed password attempts). This way, if someone tries to hack you again, you’ll know immediately and can take action.

Mitigate

Isolate the System: At the first sign of a malware or ransomware infection, disconnect the device from the internet/network. Pull the Ethernet cable or turn off Wi-Fi immediately. This helps stop the spread of the malware to other devices and can halt any ongoing data exfiltration. For ransomware specifically, isolating the machine can prevent the malware from contacting its server or encrypting network-shared files. If you cannot easily disconnect from the network, as a last resort you can power down the computer to stop the encryption process. (Note: This might result in some system damage or lost volatile data, but it can also potentially save a lot of files from being encrypted further.)

Do Not Pay the Ransom: It’s generally not recommended to pay a ransom to cybercriminals. The FBI and other authorities advise against it. Paying doesn’t guarantee you’ll get your data back, and it incentivizes the criminals. Instead, focus on removal and recovery steps. There are cases where decryption tools become available for certain ransomware strains – paying could waste money if a free solution exists or if the attackers vanish.

Assess the Situation (Safely): Take note of any ransomware note or message on your screen. If possible (without interacting with the malware), photograph or copy down the ransom note filename, contact info, and any identified ransomware strain (sometimes the note will say something like “Your files have been encrypted by XYZ ransomware”). This information can be useful for law enforcement and in searching for decryption tools. Do not rush to run strange programs or “decryptors” you find online – stick to reputable sources. Also, if only one computer is infected and others are fine, avoid plugging in external drives or USBs to the infected one now, as they could get encrypted too.

Restore

Scan with Antivirus from a Clean State: Boot the infected computer into Safe Mode (where only essential system functions run) to limit the malware’s ability to operate. If possible, use an antivirus rescue disk – a bootable USB/CD with antivirus software that runs independently of the infected OS. Run a full system scan with reputable antivirus software (Windows Defender, Malwarebytes, Bitdefender, etc.), updating the definitions first if you can. Many antiviruses can detect and remove common malware automatically. For stubborn infections, you might need multiple tools or professional help.

Check for Decryption Tools: If hit by ransomware, check sites like No More Ransom – a collaboration between law enforcement and security companies that offers free decryption tools for many ransomware strains. Enter the ransomware name or upload a sample encrypted file and ransom note to see if a decryptor exists. If one is available, follow the instructions carefully to decrypt your files.

Restore from Backup: If you have recent backups (and they weren’t connected during the infection), restore your important files from there. Ensure the malware is completely removed before restoring, or you risk re-encrypting the restored files. This is why offline/offsite backups are crucial – they can’t be touched by ransomware on your main system.

Analyze

Look at how the malware entered: Was it through a phishing email, malicious download, unpatched software vulnerability, or infected USB? Understanding the infection vector helps prevent recurrence. Ensure your OS and all software are updated with security patches. Enable real-time antivirus protection and consider using anti-ransomware features many security suites now offer. Implement the 3-2-1 backup rule: 3 copies of important data, on 2 different media types, with 1 offsite/offline.

Data Loss / Accidental Deletion

Mitigate

Stop Using the Affected Device: The moment you realize you’ve lost files (accidental deletion or disk format), avoid writing any new data to that drive/storage. In many cases, the files aren’t truly gone until overwritten. For a computer hard drive or USB stick, don’t save new files to it; if it’s your system drive, minimize use until recovery. If a memory card in a camera was formatted or had files deleted, take it out and do not take more photos on it. If you continue to use the device, you risk overwriting the very data you want to recover.

Check Recycle Bin/Trash: This sounds obvious, but make sure the files are not simply in your OS’s trash. On Windows, look in the Recycle Bin; on Mac, the Trash. If they’re there, restore them and you’re basically done. Also, check any file version history or “recently deleted” folders for applications or cloud services. For example, many cloud storage (Dropbox, OneDrive, Google Drive) have a recycle bin or version history for files – if your loss was synced to the cloud (like you deleted a folder synced with Dropbox), you might restore it via the cloud interface.

Identify the Cause: Determine if the data loss is due to physical failure or just logical deletion. Signs of physical drive failure include strange clicking/grinding noises, the drive not spinning up, or the system not recognizing the drive at all. In such cases, immediately power down the device to prevent further damage. If it’s a logical issue (accidental delete, format, or file system corruption but the drive still works), you can proceed with software-based recovery attempts. Knowing this will shape your approach – you’d treat a failing hard disk more delicately (possibly skip straight to professional help) versus an accidental file deletion (where software can help).

Restore

Use Data Recovery Software: For logical data loss (deleted files, formatted drives), try reputable data recovery software. Popular options include Recuva (free), EaseUS Data Recovery, or Disk Drill. Install the software on a different drive than the one you’re recovering from. Scan the affected drive and preview recoverable files. Many tools let you filter by file type. Select what you need and save the recovered files to a different drive (never to the same drive you’re recovering from).

Professional Recovery Services: For physical drive failures or critical data, consider professional data recovery services. Companies like DriveSavers, Ontrack, or local specialists have clean rooms and specialized equipment to recover data from damaged drives. This can be expensive ($300-3000+) but may be worth it for irreplaceable data. Get a quote first – many offer free evaluations.

Cloud and Backup Recovery: Check all your cloud services and backup solutions. Many services keep deleted files for 30-90 days. Windows has File History, Mac has Time Machine, and many cloud services have version history. You might find your files in an automatic backup you forgot about.

Analyze

Review your backup strategy. If you lost important data, it’s a wake-up call to implement proper backups. Use the 3-2-1 rule: 3 copies of important data, 2 different storage types, 1 offsite. Enable automatic cloud sync for critical folders. Consider using version control for important documents. Learn from what caused the loss – if it was accidental deletion, slow down when managing files. If it was drive failure, monitor drive health with tools like CrystalDiskInfo and replace drives showing signs of failure.

Mitigate

Contact Your Bank Immediately: Time is critical. Call your bank or credit card issuer’s fraud hotline right away to report the suspicious charges or activity. Most banks have 24/7 numbers for reporting lost cards or fraud (see “Important Contacts” below for major bank numbers). Tell them which charges or withdrawals are fraudulent. By law, if you report an unauthorized credit card charge, you’re only liable for up to $50 maximum – and most banks waive that entirely. For debit card or bank account fraud (unauthorized withdrawals), reporting within 2 business days can limit your liability to $50 as well (and even if you wait up to 60 days of your statement, it’s capped at $500 under Reg E). The bank will likely freeze the affected card/account to prevent further use and start an investigation. Tip: Also check if any other accounts at that institution were affected (savings, etc.) and have the representative review those with you.

Lock Down Online Access: If the fraud might be due to a compromise of your online banking login (for example, you notice login from an unknown device or the attacker changed your contact info), change your online banking password immediately. Do this from a secure device. Also enable two-factor authentication on your bank’s app/website if not already – most banks offer SMS or app codes. Many banking apps allow you to “turn off” your debit card temporarily or set transaction alerts; use these features to mitigate further unauthorized use.

Suspend Affected Cards/Accounts: While on the phone with the bank, work with the agent to cancel the affected card or account. If it’s a credit/debit card, they will block the card number and issue a new card. If it’s your actual bank account number (e.g. someone wrote fraudulent checks or initiated ACH transfers), the bank may suggest closing that account and opening a new one. Update any autopays linked to the old account later. The key is to stop any ongoing fraudulent access to your funds.

Check Other Financial Accounts: Fraud often doesn’t happen in isolation. Check all your other bank accounts and credit cards (even at different institutions) for any signs of suspicious activity. If you find any, contact those institutions as well. Consider that if one card’s info was stolen (e.g. via a skimmer or online breach), other cards used in the same places might be at risk. As a precaution, you may choose to change PINs on your ATM cards and passwords on other financial logins.

Computer/Device Hygiene: If there’s any chance your computer or phone was involved in the compromise (for instance, you unknowingly had malware that captured your banking credentials), address that now. Run an antivirus scan on your devices, ensure your banking apps are up to date, and avoid using the possibly infected device for banking until you’re confident it’s clean. This helps contain any breach. If you did enter your bank password on a suspicious website (phishing), assume it’s compromised: change it, and if you used that same password elsewhere, change it on those sites too.

Document Everything: Start a log of what happened and when: dates, amounts of fraudulent charges, which representatives you spoke to at the bank, etc. Keep copies of any emails from the bank about the fraud case. This documentation will help in the restoration phase and if any disputes arise.

Restore

Follow Bank’s Dispute Process: Your bank or card issuer will investigate the fraud and reverse unauthorized charges in most cases. Typically, for credit cards, you won’t pay those charges while under investigation. For bank account withdrawals, the bank often provides a provisional credit within 10 business days while they investigate. Work closely with the fraud department – fill out and return any affidavit or forms they require to confirm the transactions were not yours. By reporting promptly and providing any needed info, you maximize your protections under federal law.

New Cards, New Credentials: The bank will send you new card(s) or set up a new account if needed. When you receive new credit/debit cards, update any recurring payments or linked services (e.g. your paycheck direct deposit if account number changed, or subscriptions that had your old card). Destroy the old cards (if you still have them). Choose new PINs for any debit cards. If your online banking login was compromised, ensure your new password is strong and not used elsewhere, and that your contact info (phone/email) in the bank’s system is correct (an attacker might have changed them).

Credit Alert and Monitoring: Since financial account fraud can be a sign of broader identity theft, consider placing a fraud alert on your credit reports (if you haven’t already done so) as a precaution. This is especially important if your bank account info or SSN was exposed. A fraud alert is free for one year and can be extended to 7 years if you provide an identity theft report. You might also get your credit reports to see if any new credit accounts have been opened in your name that you didn’t authorize – if so, that confirms identity theft and you should take the Identity Theft steps in the previous section. At minimum, monitor your credit reports and scores in the coming months. Many banks offer free credit score monitoring or you can use AnnualCreditReport.com.

Report to Authorities if Needed: If the fraud was part of a larger scam (for example, you were tricked into sending money or your account was taken over by a hacker), consider filing a report with the FBI’s Internet Crime Complaint Center (IC3) and/or the FTC (at reportfraud.ftc.gov) to document the crime. IC3 is especially relevant if you were induced to transfer money (like a wire fraud or online scam). A police report can also be filed for bank fraud – some banks may require one if the loss is significant. Having official reports on file can help in any recovery and adds to law enforcement data on fraud patterns. (Note: if your checkbook was stolen or checks were forged, definitely file a police report – that’s bank fraud and also identity theft.)

Restore Safety Nets: Set up any security features that might help catch future issues: transaction alerts via text/email for all charges, low-balance alerts, etc. If your bank offers it, turn on login notifications (so you know if someone logs in). Some banks allow you to put extra passwords or verifications on your accounts for phone support access – you could add those so a thief can’t socially engineer access.

Follow Up: After the bank’s investigation period, confirm the outcome. You should see the fraudulent charges refunded or corrected. If any charges were not reimbursed or any accounts not fully resolved, escalate with the bank (you can invoke your rights under the Fair Credit Billing Act for credit cards or Regulation E for bank accounts). In rare cases, you might need to provide additional info or a sworn statement. Mark your calendar to ensure you receive final documentation from the bank about the resolution. Keep those for your records.

Analyze

Figure Out How It Happened: Was your card number stolen (e.g. via a skimming device or online merchant breach) or did you possibly give away info (responding to a phishing call/email or a fake “bank” text)? Understanding this is key. For instance, if your debit card was compromised at an ATM or gas pump, be more vigilant for card skimmers (inspect card readers, cover your PIN). If you suspect a dishonest cashier copied your card, use chip or contactless payments where possible (harder to skim). If you fell for a phishing email or call (perhaps someone impersonated your bank), learn from it – banks will never call and ask for your full password or PIN or verification codes. If you shared those, that’s how the fraud occurred. In the future, independently verify by calling the number on your card, not the one given by a caller.

Check Your Digital Hygiene: If the fraud originated from online account compromise (for example, your actual bank login was hacked), you must treat it seriously like an account breach. How did they get in? If you reused a password that was exposed in another breach, that’s likely the cause – so never reuse bank passwords. If you didn’t have 2FA on your bank, enable it now. If your computer had malware, make sure it’s clean and updated. Going forward, ensure your devices are protected when doing financial transactions – use reputable security software and avoid banking on public Wi-Fi without a VPN.

Info Theft vs. Card Theft: Determine if this was isolated card fraud or part of broader identity theft. If only your card number was misused (common if a database was hacked or a skimmer grabbed your data), usually shutting down that card stops the issue. But if more personal info was involved (like someone knew your SSN, opened accounts in your name, or hijacked your entire online banking), then treat it as identity theft – monitor everything closely and follow identity theft steps. Often, unexplained bank account or credit card fraud is contained once cards are replaced. Just be alert in case other identity elements were compromised.

Educate & Prevent: Share what happened with close family so they can avoid similar scams or pitfalls. For example, if you were hit by a clever phone scam (“this is your bank, we need you to verify your code”), tell relatives so they don’t get duped. Scammers often target multiple people with the same ruse. Remember to report phishing attempts – forward phishing emails to the Anti-Phishing Working Group (reportphishing@apwg.org) and scam texts to 7726 (which notifies cell carriers). By reporting, you help disrupt the scammers’ operations.

Financial Habits: Consider additional safeguards such as using a credit card instead of a debit card for most purchases – credit cards have strong fraud protections (and no direct impact on your bank balance during disputes). Many people use credit for transactions and then pay it off, to insulate their bank account from direct fraud hits. If you do use debit, keep lower balances in the account and transfer money as needed, so any potential fraud is limited. Using alerts aggressively can give you real-time awareness: for instance, get a text for any transaction over $1. This way, if a fraudulent charge happens, you know within seconds and can take action. Finally, if available, use virtual card numbers for online shopping (some banks provide these) to limit exposure of your real card info. Each step reduces the risk or impact of fraud in the future.

Mitigate

Call/Track the Phone: If you just misplaced the phone, try calling it from another line to see if someone answers. If truly lost or stolen, use your phone’s built-in find and lock features immediately. For iPhone, go to icloud.com/find on a computer (or use the Find My app on another Apple device) to locate the phone on a map, mark it as lost, and remotely lock it. For Android, use the Find My Device service to locate and secure it. Do this as soon as possible. You can usually make the phone play a sound as well, which helps if it’s nearby. Marking it “lost” will often lock the screen and display a message/number to contact if found.

Remote Wipe: If the phone appears to be stolen (for example, moving on the map or in an unknown location) or you believe it’s truly gone, trigger a remote erase (factory reset) from the Find My interface. On iCloud this is “Erase iPhone”; on Google it’s “Erase Device.” This will delete the data on your phone (contacts, emails, apps, etc.) to protect your privacy. Note: if the phone is offline or turned off, the erase command will execute next time it comes online. In the meantime, the phone remains locked.

Notify Your Carrier: Contact your mobile service provider right away and report the phone as lost/stolen. They can suspend your service or flag the device. This prevents a thief from running up your phone bill or using your SIM card (for instance, moving it to another phone). The carrier can also blacklist the phone’s IMEI so it cannot be easily activated on major networks. By doing this, you also shut down the possibility of a thief getting SMS messages or calls intended for you (important for stopping SIM-based account recovery).

Change Critical Passwords: Consider what apps and accounts were accessible on your phone, especially those that stay logged in. To be safe, change your passwords for any sensitive accounts that were on the device – e.g. your primary email account, Apple ID/Google account, banking apps, social media. Many mobile apps keep you logged in, so a thief could open your email or other apps if the phone isn’t locked. Changing the passwords (from a secure device) will log those sessions out. Focus on your Apple/Google account first (as that is the “keys to the kingdom” on the phone), then email, then financial apps, etc. Also, if you had a password manager app on the phone, change its master password and/or deauthorize the device in its settings.

Secure 2FA and Phone Recovery: If your phone number is used for two-factor authentication (SMS codes) or account recovery, visit those accounts (bank, email, etc.) and either update 2FA to use an alternate method or alert those services that your phone is stolen. For instance, if you lose your phone, someone could attempt a “SIM swap” fraud – but since you already alerted the carrier, that’s less likely. Still, you might temporarily add additional verification steps on accounts where possible. Some services let you add a note “do not allow phone number changes without extra steps” if you call them. As an extra precaution, you can call your carrier’s customer service and set a password/PIN on your wireless account if you haven’t already – this makes it harder for an attacker to impersonate you to the carrier.

Physical Security: If your phone was stolen along with other items (like your wallet or keys), consider the physical security aspect too. A thief with your phone and your ID or keys is more concerning. In such cases, change locks if needed and monitor identity documents. But assuming it’s just the phone: ensure your phone’s lock screen was enabled (PIN, fingerprint, etc.). Modern phones have strong encryption tied to the passcode – if you had a good passcode, your data is likely safe. However, if you did not have a lock or it was something easily guessed, the thief could access your apps. That’s why changing passwords quickly is vital in those scenarios.

Restore

File a Police Report: If you suspect the phone was stolen (as opposed to lost), file a police report with local law enforcement. Provide the make/model, color, and if possible the device’s serial number or IMEI (often on the box or your phone bill). While the police may not actively search for every stolen phone, having a report can help with insurance claims or if the phone is recovered. In some regions, you can report lost property online as well. If you have any tracking info (like “last seen at X location at Y time”), include that.

Phone Insurance / Replacement: If you had phone insurance (through the carrier or third-party, or AppleCare+ with theft/loss coverage for an iPhone), initiate a claim for a replacement. This usually requires that police report number. The insurer will guide you through the claim and usually send a replacement device quickly after approval. If no insurance, you’ll have to purchase a new device or see if you’re eligible for an upgrade with your carrier. When getting a new SIM card/device, the carrier will deactivate the old SIM (if not already done).

Restore Your Data: Once you have a new phone, you can restore from backup. For iPhones, if you had iCloud Backup on, sign in with your Apple ID on the new iPhone and restore the latest iCloud backup during setup – you’ll get your apps, data, and settings back to the point of the last backup. For Android, if you had enabled Google backups, a similar restore can occur (and photos may sync from Google Photos, etc.). If you used a third-party backup (like Samsung Cloud or others), use that. For any data not backed up, you may have lost it, but nowadays most info (contacts, calendars, etc.) is synced to cloud accounts (Google, iCloud) and will reappear when you sign in.

Re-secure Accounts on New Device: As you set up the new phone, go through your important accounts (email, banking, etc.) and ensure you can access them and that the thief’s device is logged out. For example, Google’s account security panel or Apple’s devices list will show the old phone – you can remove it or mark it as lost (if you haven’t already) which forces a logout. Many apps will also send notifications of “new device login” – that’s you on the new phone, which is expected. If you had authentication apps, use your backup codes or cloud sync to get those tokens onto the new device. For SMS 2FA, once your new SIM is activated with your number, you’ll receive codes again. The key is to ensure the old phone cannot receive anything or stay logged in. Given you wiped it, it should be clean, but double-check account activity logs for a few days.

Update Phone Security Settings: On your new phone, take the time to implement strong security to mitigate future loss: use a strong PIN or alphanumeric passcode (longer than 4 digits) along with biometric lock (fingerprint/FaceID). Enable phone-finding services (Find My iPhone/Device) again. Activate the feature that wipes the phone after 10 (or a certain number of) failed passcode attempts (iPhone has this; use carefully if you tend to forget your PIN). This way, even if stolen, the data can’t easily be brute-forced. Also, re-enable your backups on the new phone.

Inform Relevant Parties: If your phone contained work data or was managed by an employer (through an MDM or company apps), notify your company’s IT department immediately when the phone is lost. They may execute their own remote wipe or security measures on corporate data. They’ll also begin procedures to issue you a new device or help secure your accounts. If any personal items were lost with the phone (like a transit card, etc.), arrange replacements. For services like mobile payment apps (Apple Pay, Google Pay, Samsung Pay), the cards should have been suspended on the lost device when you used Find My to mark it lost. However, confirm with your bank that the tokenized cards on the device are disabled. Generally, marking the phone as lost in Apple’s system will suspend Apple Pay on that device.

Monitor for Abuse: Even after all this, keep an eye on things. Check your phone bill for a month or two to ensure there are no strange charges (your carrier suspension should prevent this, but premium texts or such might appear if they occurred just before suspension). Also, monitor your accounts for any signs of unauthorized access that might trace back to the phone loss. If you find any (e.g., an email account that was accessible on the phone shows login attempts), take additional action (change email password again, etc.). Often, a thief is after the hardware itself to resell, not your data – especially if it’s locked – but vigilance is wise.

Analyze

Circumstances of Loss: Think about how your phone was lost or stolen to learn from it. If it was stolen out of your hand or pocket in public (common in crowded cities, bars, etc.), you might invest in a sturdier grip (phone strap or case) or be more discreet when using it openly. If it was taken from a car or table when unattended, you’ve learned not to leave it visible or unattended. If you simply misplaced it, consider habits to keep phone secure (like a designated pocket or bag compartment where it always goes).

Improve Physical Security: Ensure that your next phone has all security features enabled: always use a PIN or password (10+ digits or a mix of letters is best) or a biometric lock. Avoid using trivial swipe patterns or no lock at all. Modern phones encrypt data when locked – this is a huge safeguard, but only if you use it. Also, set the screen to auto-lock quickly (e.g., after 30 seconds or 1 minute of inactivity) so that if you forget it somewhere, it locks itself fast. It’s also good to enable the SIM PIN feature (a separate code for your SIM card) – that way even if someone moves your SIM to another device, it can’t be used without the PIN. This prevents SIM misuse for calls or 2FA interception.

Limit Sensitive Data on Phone: Consider what was on your phone. Did you have apps storing sensitive personal documents or passwords without any additional lock? Going forward, use a password manager app (which keeps its own vault locked) rather than, say, notes apps for passwords. Don’t store unencrypted copies of things like social security cards or passports on the device unless in a secure app. If you have images of sensitive documents, maybe keep them in a secure cloud storage that requires login. Essentially, operate under the assumption “If someone had my unlocked phone, what all could they get?” and then secure those avenues. For instance, ensure your email app requires re-auth after a period, or your banking app has an app-specific PIN enabled. Many banking apps allow a fingerprint login – use that (it won’t help after phone is lost, but it’s an extra barrier if someone somehow is in your phone).

Familiarize with Recovery Features: Now that you’ve been through it, you know the value of Find My Device and similar services. Keep those enabled and up to date. It’s also good to test them occasionally – e.g., log into iCloud and ensure your device shows up. Some people discover too late that they never enabled the feature. Also, maintain updated contact info on those services: for Apple’s “Mark as Lost” to be useful, you should provide a number or email for someone to reach you if they find the phone. For Android, ensure your Google account recovery info is current in case you need it.

Data Backup Check: Losing a phone can mean losing locally-stored data (like photos, contacts) if you weren’t backing them up. Use this experience to double-check that your important data is syncing/backing up. For instance, on iPhone make sure iCloud Backup is on and that it included everything you care about (photos, app data, etc.), or that you have an alternate backup method. On Android, verify that Google Photos backup is on (if you use it) and that your contacts are synced to Google. This way, even if the device is gone, your digital memories and info aren’t. The peace of mind of knowing that a lost phone doesn’t mean lost photos is worth the effort.

Financial and ID Follow-up: If your wallet was stolen alongside your phone (which can happen in muggings or purse thefts), remember to also follow the Lost Wallet guidance. The combination is an identity theft risk (e.g., driver’s license + phone). But assuming just the phone: verify that no unauthorized charges ended up on mobile payment accounts or carrier billing. For example, some thieves might try to use apps like Apple Pay or Google Pay if the phone was unlocked when stolen – though they usually require authorization for each transaction (fingerprint/FaceID), which stops most thieves. Still, check your card statements that are linked to your phone’s mobile wallet. If something appears, dispute it with the bank (they often treat it like a stolen card if the phone was in someone else’s hands). The good news is most contactless payments won’t work without biometric or passcode authorization each time.

Mindfulness Moving Forward: Be mindful of your device’s whereabouts. Perhaps consider gadgets like a Bluetooth tracker (Tile, AirTag) hidden in your phone case or bag – these can sometimes help locate lost items beyond the phone’s own tracking (especially if the phone battery dies, an AirTag in the case could still ping location via Apple’s network). And always remember: a phone can be replaced, but your personal data is valuable. You took strong steps to protect it; keep up those good practices with your new device.

Mitigate

Cancel Payment Cards Immediately: As soon as you realize the wallet is gone, call your bank and credit card issuers to report your cards lost or stolen. Nearly all banks have 24/7 hotlines for this. Have them cancel the card numbers and order replacements. This prevents any finder or thief from using your credit/debit cards. You generally won’t be liable for unauthorized charges if you report promptly (credit card losses are capped at $50 by law, and banks usually waive even that). For debit cards, quick reporting is key to limit liability. Also, if you had checks or a checkbook in the wallet, request a stop payment on any missing checks and possibly close the account if a large number of checks were taken.

Driver’s License/ID: Losing your driver’s license or state ID means someone has a piece of your identity. While they may not be able to directly drain your bank with just that, it can be used for identity theft (opening accounts, etc.). Contact your state DMV as soon as feasible to report the license lost/stolen. In many states, this flags the license number in case someone tries to use it for identification. Plan to get a replacement license issued. If your wallet was stolen (as opposed to lost), having a police report can be useful here too. In some cases, the DMV may note on your file that the previous license is invalid.

Police Report: If theft is suspected (for example, your wallet was pickpocketed or taken in a burglary), file a police report for the stolen wallet. Provide details of what was in it (e.g., “Driver’s license, two credit cards ending in …. , possibly my Social Security card” etc.). While the police might not recover it immediately, a report creates an official record. This can help prove to creditors that you reported the loss, and it’s often required if you later need to dispute fraudulent charges or apply for new identification documents. Even if you simply lost it and aren’t sure where, you can file a lost property report; this might help if someone turns it in.

Social Security Card: Ideally, you do not carry your Social Security card in your wallet. If you did and it’s now lost, assume the worst: someone could use that and your ID to commit identity theft (like opening loans, tax fraud, etc.). In this case, place a fraud alert on your credit reports as described under Identity Theft Mitigation above. A fraud alert makes it harder for someone to use your SSN to open new accounts. You should also contact the Social Security Administration to report the lost card and request a replacement. They won’t change your SSN just for a lost card, but having an alert on credit will help. Monitor your credit closely for the next year (consider a credit freeze if you feel it’s necessary).

Other Contents: Think through what else was in the wallet: Insurance cards (health insurance, etc.) – call your insurance provider to get replacements and alert them in case someone tries to use your benefits. Membership cards (gym, library): notify the organizations so they can watch for someone else using your identity. House keys with an ID that has your address – this is critical; if your keys and ID were together, a thief knows where you live and has your keys. In that case, you should change your locks or re-key your home immediately for safety. Passport card or passport booklet: report it lost to the State Department (they will invalidate it to prevent fraudulent use). Basically, address each important item that was in the wallet by notifying the issuing authority.

Digital Implications: If you kept any passwords, PINs or written notes in your wallet (some people jot down ATM PINs or email passwords on paper – not recommended!), assume those are compromised and change those passwords/PINs right away. Also, if your wallet loss included any device like a security token or smartcard for work, notify your employer or the issuer immediately.

Temporary Measures: While waiting for new cards and IDs, you might be without a way to pay or drive legally. Arrange backups: you can go to your bank branch with ID (passport or info) to withdraw cash if needed, or ask for an emergency replacement/ATM withdrawal solution. For ID, keep a copy of the police report and maybe a photocopy of your ID (if you have one at home) with you – it might help if you need to prove your identity in the interim. These are more personal inconveniences, but planning them mitigates the immediate impact on your daily life.

Restore

Financial Accounts: In the days after, verify with your banks that all compromised cards/accounts have been closed or changed. You’ll receive new credit/debit cards usually within a week (many issuers can expedite). Review statements carefully for any charges that slipped through right around the loss. Sometimes thieves go on a spending spree immediately after stealing a wallet, before you canceled the cards. If you see any charges you didn’t catch initially, dispute them with the bank – your initial report should cover them, but double-check none were missed. If you had automatic payments tied to the lost cards, update those with your new card info to avoid lapses.

ID and Government Docs: Go to the DMV (or equivalent) to get your driver’s license/state ID replaced. They’ll issue a new license number or at least a duplicate with a new document number. If you have a police report, bring it – some states waive the replacement fee if you have a theft report. For a Social Security card, you can request a replacement online or at a SSA office (you’re allowed a few replacements in a lifetime). For a lost passport, submit Form DS-64 (Statement Regarding Lost or Stolen Passport) to the State Department to officially invalidate the old one, and then apply for a new passport if needed. These steps ensure that if someone tries to use your ID (which is hard to do in person due to photo, but they might try to use the info online), it’s documented as lost/stolen.

Credit Monitoring and Alerts: Even if you didn’t carry your SSN, your driver’s license info plus other personal info in the wallet could be used for identity fraud. Consider placing at least a one-year fraud alert via any one of the credit bureaus (which will notify the others). This is free and just requires creditors to verify identity before issuing credit. If you are very concerned, you could do a credit freeze at Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion, which is a stronger measure – it prevents any new credit from being pulled in your name until you unfreeze. It might be overkill for a simple lost wallet with no SSN exposure, but it’s an option for peace of mind (free to freeze and thaw as of U.S. law). At minimum, over the next few months, check your credit reports for any new accounts you don’t recognize. IdentityTheft.gov has guidance if you do find any.

Identity Theft Plan (if needed): If you start getting strange bills, collection calls, or notices that suggest someone is impersonating you (for instance, a letter about an account you never opened), act quickly. Go to IdentityTheft.gov and follow the steps to file an identity theft report and freeze accounts. Use the police report you filed as part of your evidence. The sooner you jump on identity theft, the easier the recovery. Keep copies of all communications; you might need to send banks a copy of your ID Theft Report to clear fraudulent debts.

Replace Other Cards: Obtain replacements for all the secondary cards from your wallet. Health insurance card, auto insurance ID card, voter registration card – contact the respective providers or agencies. Many have online self-service to request new cards. For memberships (gym, club, etc.), get new membership numbers if applicable. If you lost any work ID or access card, inform your employer to deactivate the old one and issue a new one. It’s easy to overlook some items, so make a list of everything that was in the wallet and check them off as you resolve each.

Evaluate ID Theft Protection: If you want additional reassurance, you could sign up for an identity theft protection service (often they provide credit monitoring, SSN monitoring, and assistance if ID theft occurs). Some are available for free or low cost (or even provided by your employer or bank as a perk). This isn’t mandatory, but an active monitoring service can alert you if your info is used for things like payday loans or if your SSN pops up on the dark web. Given a lost wallet, it’s something to consider at least for a year. You can also do a lot of monitoring yourself (set up free credit score updates that often flag new accounts, etc.).

Build a Recovery Kit: Since you’re in the process of restoring everything, take the opportunity to create a secure list of your cards and contacts for the future. E.g., note down card numbers (or just the last 4 and the phone numbers to call) and keep it in a safe place at home. This way, if you ever lose your wallet again, you won’t have to scramble to remember what was in it or where to call. Keep a photocopy or scan of your driver’s license, passport, and insurance cards at home too. These copies can’t be used for official purposes generally, but they help you prove and remember what you had. Store any such info securely (locked cabinet or encrypted digital file). This step will turn a future wallet emergency into a more routine process.

Analyze

How Did It Go Missing? Reflect on when and where the wallet was likely lost or stolen to learn from it. If stolen, it might have been a moment of distraction – perhaps someone bumped you or you left it briefly unattended. Use this insight to be more guarded. For instance, men: avoid keeping wallets in back pockets in crowded areas (consider a front pocket or a jacket inner pocket – harder to pickpocket). Women: if your purse was targeted, be mindful of leaving it in shopping carts or hanging on chairs. In cars, never leave your wallet visible when you park. These small habit changes significantly reduce theft risk.

Minimize What You Carry: A big lesson of a lost wallet is realizing how much you had in it. Going forward, carry only the essentials. Do you need all 5 credit cards every day? Probably not – maybe carry one or two, and keep others secured at home until needed. Don’t carry your Social Security card unless absolutely necessary that day. Only carry your passport when needed for travel. Reducing what’s in your wallet means reducing your exposure if it ever happens again. Some people even separate their IDs and cards – e.g., keeping a backup credit card separately from the wallet when traveling, so that if the wallet is lost, they have an alternative form of payment.

Use Digital Alternatives Wisely: Consider leveraging digital wallets (mobile payments) so that you’re less dependent on physical cards. Services like Apple Pay, Google Pay, or Samsung Pay let you pay via your phone; they’re actually very secure (they use tokenized card numbers). This doesn’t mean not carrying any card at all (phone could die), but maybe one card physically and others can be used via phone. Just be mindful that losing your phone then becomes the issue (refer to Lost Phone section). But digital payments can reduce the number of sensitive items you carry. Also, many states now offer digital driver’s licenses or insurance cards – having those as a backup on your phone can help if you lose the physical one (though digital ID acceptance varies).

Security of Personal Info: Since a lost wallet often contains personal info (even something like your address on your ID), be alert to scams or fraud attempts that might use that info. For example, someone might know your address and name from your license and try to impersonate a bank calling you. Or they mail something to you. Just be slightly paranoid in the short term about communications – verify identities of anyone who contacts you about finances or identity. Also, consider putting a flag on your mailbox with the post office if you think the thief might know where you live – in rare cases, thieves follow up wallet theft by stealing mail (to get more info like credit card statements). A simple fix is a locked mailbox or using a P.O. box for a while.

Watch for Strange Activity Beyond Finance: Identity theft can also manifest in things like someone using your driver’s license number if they get pulled over (to pretend to be you) or trying to use your health insurance. While less common, keep an eye out: if you get any notice of a traffic violation or ticket you know nothing about, or medical bills for services you didn’t receive, that could mean someone is using your ID. If that happens, you’ll use the police report you filed to contest it. It’s another reason why notifying DMV and insurance companies was important. These scenarios are rarer but being aware means you can react quickly.

Preventive Habits: Now that you’ve dealt with the aftermath, set up habits to protect yourself. For example, keep an updated list at home of what’s in your wallet (credit card numbers’ last 4 and contact numbers, ID numbers, etc.). Some people even scan their cards (front/back) and store the images securely. This makes it easy to cancel things quickly. Another habit: whenever you go out, mentally note the essentials and do a quick “pat-down” check before leaving a place: phone, keys, wallet. This simple routine (phone-keys-wallet) can help catch a missing wallet immediately rather than later when it’s harder to trace. If you’re tech-friendly, you could put a Bluetooth tracker in your wallet as well, which can alert you if you walk away without it.

Emotional Recovery: Losing a wallet is stressful and violating. Remind yourself that you took the right steps and most items can be replaced. The inconvenience is hopefully short-lived due to your prompt action. Many people only experience this once in a lifetime – and they become much more security-conscious afterward. That’s the silver lining: you’re now equipped with a plan and awareness that will serve you well (and you can help friends/family if it happens to them). Stay safe, and may your wallet remain firmly in your possession going forward!

Mitigate

1. Stop all communication with the scammer immediately
2. Document everything - Save all emails, messages, receipts, and screenshots
3. Determine the type of scam and follow the appropriate guide:
   • Money was stolen from your bank/credit card → See Banking Fraud guide
   • Your online accounts were compromised → See Account Hacked guide
   • Your computer is infected/locked or files are missing → See Computer Issues guide
   • You shared personal information → See Identity Theft guide
   • You lost a physical device → See Lost Phone or Lost Wallet guides

Restore

1. Report the scam to appropriate authorities:

   • File a complaint with the FTC
   • Report to IC3 for internet crimes
   • Contact your local police for significant losses

2. Warn others who might be targeted:

   • Alert friends/family if the scam used your contacts
   • Report fake profiles on social media platforms
   • Leave reviews on scam tracking websites

3. Monitor for ongoing issues:

   • Check credit reports for new accounts
   • Watch for follow-up scams (scammers often re-target victims)
   • Be alert for “recovery scams” offering to get your money back

Analyze

• Learn the warning signs that you missed:

  • Urgency and pressure tactics
  • Requests for unusual payment methods (gift cards, wire transfers, cryptocurrency)
  • Too-good-to-be-true offers
  • Unsolicited contact claiming to be from authorities

• Strengthen your defenses:

  • Enable two-factor authentication on all accounts
  • Use unique passwords for each account
  • Verify contacts independently (don’t use numbers/links provided by potential scammers)
  • Install reputable antivirus software

• Stay informed about current scams:

  • Subscribe to FTC consumer alerts
  • Check scam databases before responding to offers
  • Learn about new scam techniques as they emerge

Emergency Services & Law Enforcement: For any scenario where you feel threatened or there’s an immediate risk (for example, an online situation escalating to physical threats, or extortion), call 911. For non-emergency incidents (like filing a police report for identity theft, stolen property, etc.), contact your local police department’s non-emergency line or visit in person. If you encounter significant cybercrime (large fraud, cyber extortion, etc.), you can report it to federal authorities. The FBI’s Internet Crime Complaint Center (IC3) is the main portal for reporting internet-facilitated crimes. Submit a report at IC3.gov – it’s reviewed by the FBI and you’ll get a confirmation number (and you can also use this report when dealing with banks or credit bureaus as proof of crime). For ransomware attacks, business email hacks, and other major cyber incidents, the FBI or CISA can also be contacted directly, but filing through IC3 is usually sufficient for individuals.

Federal Trade Commission (FTC): The FTC manages IdentityTheft.gov and general fraud reporting. Use IdentityTheft.gov for step-by-step recovery for identity theft – it creates an Identity Theft Report and pre-filled letters for disputing fraudulent accounts. For other scams (like imposter scams, abusive business practices, or phishing attempts), you can file a report at ReportFraud.ftc.gov. The FTC database is used by law enforcement to track patterns of fraud. While they don’t resolve individual cases, your reports help them shut down scam operations and issue warnings.

Major Financial Institution Fraud Hotlines

If you suspect bank or credit card fraud, contact your bank immediately. Here are fraud contact numbers and resources for some top U.S. banks:

Bank of America:

• Personal banking (report lost/stolen debit cards, ATM cards, or checking account fraud): 800-432-1000 (24/7)
• Credit card fraud: 800-421-2110
• BoA’s Security Center page provides additional numbers and guidance

Chase (JPMorgan Chase):

• Personal checking/savings account fraud: 800-935-9935 (press 8 for fraud department)
• Chase credit cards fraud line: 800-955-9060
• Chase’s “How to report fraud” page on their site gives more numbers and steps to follow

Wells Fargo:

• Personal and small business bank account or identity theft issues: 800-869-3557 (24/7)
• Wells credit cards: 800-642-4720
• Online/mobile banking fraud: 1-866-867-5568
• Report phishing emails to: reportphish@wellsfargo.com

Citibank:

• Customer service/fraud reporting: 800-374-9700 (24/7)
• Report suspicious emails to: spoof@citi.com
• Citi credit cards: 800-950-5114

Capital One:

• General customer service: 800-227-4825
• Dedicated fraud line: 800-427-9428
• For calls from outside the U.S.: 1-804-934-2001 (collect)
• Capital One debit card lost/stolen: 1-800-655-2265
• Report scam emails/texts to: abuse@capitalone.com

(If your bank isn’t listed here, look at the back of your card or the bank’s official website for a “Security/Fraud” contact. Nearly all major banks have a 24-hour number for reporting fraud – do not delay contacting them.)

Credit Bureaus (Fraud Alerts & Credit Freezes)

The three nationwide credit bureaus are Experian, Equifax, TransUnion. You can contact any one of them to set a fraud alert, and they will notify the other two. Key contacts/links:

Experian:

• Fraud alert requests: Experian Fraud Center or call 1-888-397-3742
• Security freeze: Experian Freeze Center or call 1-888-397-3742

Equifax:

• Fraud alert: Equifax’s Fraud Alert page or call 1-888-766-0008
• Credit freeze: equifax.com/personal/credit-report-services or call 1-800-685-1111
• Equifax also offers a free service called Lock & Alert that instantly locks/unlocks your report

TransUnion:

• Fraud alert: transunion.com/fraud-alerts or call 1-800-680-7289
• Credit freeze: transunion.com/credit-freeze or call 1-888-909-8872

Remember, an initial fraud alert lasts 1 year and is free; an extended fraud alert (for confirmed ID theft victims with a police/FTC report) lasts 7 years. Credit freezes last until you lift them – they are free to place/lift and are the most robust protection. Use these tools if you suspect your identity info is out there. For general inquiries or to request free annual credit reports by phone, you can call AnnualCreditReport.com at 1-877-322-8228.

Identity Theft & Fraud Reporting

• IdentityTheft.gov – The one-stop FTC resource for ID theft. Use it to create your recovery plan and get official documentation. Also visit the FTC’s Identity Theft Recovery Guide (they have PDFs and checklists) for additional help.

• IRS Identity Theft – If your Social Security number was stolen or you suspect tax-related identity theft (e.g., someone filed a tax return in your name), contact the IRS Identity Protection Specialized Unit at 1-800-908-4490. Also consider filing IRS Form 14039.

• Social Security Administration Fraud Hotline – 1-800-269-0271. Use this if someone is misusing your SSN (for employment, benefits, etc.). Also, you can set up a “My Social Security” account online to monitor your Social Security statements for any strange activity.

• USPS (Mail Theft/Fraud) – If you suspect your mail was stolen or someone filed a false change-of-address on you (it’s a tactic to intercept mail for ID theft), report it to the U.S. Postal Inspection Service at 1-877-876-2455 or online. They also handle mail fraud scams.

Phishing and Cybersecurity

• Phishing Emails: Forward phishing emails to reportphishing@apwg.org (Anti-Phishing Working Group). They collect and disseminate these to authorities and tech companies to take down phishing sites. You can also forward spam/phishing to spam@uce.gov, which is an FTC database (though ReportFraud.ftc.gov is the newer method to report).

• Phishing Texts: Forward scam text messages to 7726 (which spells “SPAM”). This works for most major cell carriers – it alerts them to block that source. They may respond asking for the number it came from, so follow any instructions after forwarding.

• CISA – The Cybersecurity & Infrastructure Security Agency has a wealth of security tips for the public on their site cisa.gov. They also have an incident reporting system for serious cyber incidents. While individual home users don’t usually contact CISA, their StopRansomware site and alerts are useful.

• Have I Been Pwned: haveibeenpwned.com – check if your email or phone appears in known data breaches. If it does, that’s a sign to change passwords and be extra vigilant. Sign up there to get notified if your email gets caught in future breaches.

Top Official Resources

• USA.gov – The U.S. government’s official guide portal has pages on “Report and Recover from Identity Theft” and “How to Freeze Your Credit” with concise instructions and links.

• FTC Consumer Advice – The FTC’s site consumer.ftc.gov has an “Articles” section with topics on scams, privacy, identity theft, etc.

• IC3.gov – The FBI’s IC3 is for reporting any internet-enabled crime (fraudulent online sales, romance scams, ransomware, etc.). Use this if you lost money or were significantly targeted online.

• Better Business Bureau (BBB) Scam Tracker: If you want to report a scam (especially consumer scams, like fake tech support calls, impostor IRS calls, etc.) but weren’t necessarily a victim, you can log it on the BBB ScamTracker (at BBB.org/ScamTracker). This helps warn others in your area.